Accurate prediction of wave transformation is key in the design of coastal and nearshore structures which typically depends on numerical models. Turbulent and rotational effects call for the use of Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) solvers of which a large range of formulations including free surface treatments exists. Physical wave flume tests of wave propagation over a submerged bar with various levels of nonlinearity, regularity, and wave-breaking, dedicated to numerical model benchmarking or validation, were carried out in the Ocean and Coastal Engineering Laboratory of Aalborg University. Three fundamentally different CFD models each widespread within their category are benchmarked against the experimental data. The CFD models are based on (i) the Volume of Fluid (VoF) based interFoam solver of OpenFOAM, (ii) the sigma-transformation solver of MIKE 3 Waves Model FM, and (iii) the weakly compressible delta-SPH solver of DualSPHysics. Accuracy of the numerical models is assessed from surface elevation time series, evaluation metrics (averaged errors on surface elevations, amplitudes, phases, and wave set-up), and spectral analyses to calculate the amplitude and phase contents of primary and higher-order components along the wave flume. Applicability is assessed from computational costs and ease-of-use factors such as the effort to configure the numerical models and achieve convergence. In general, the numerical models have high correlation to the physical tests and are as such suitable to model complex wave transformation with an accuracy sufficient for most coastal engineering applications. The VoF model performs more accurately under the turbulent conditions of breaking waves, increasing its relative accuracy in the prediction of downwave surface elevation. The sigma transformation model has simulation times one to two orders of magnitude lower than those of the VoF and SPH models.
The present paper deals with separation of long-crested regular waves into incident and reflected components. Such methods have been available for several decades for linear waves, but have recently been extended to cover nonlinear waves over horizontal foreshores. The overall goal of the present paper is to extend the separation method for nonlinear regular waves to also cover sloping foreshores. This requires the combination of the existing method with a nonlinear shoaling model. A nonlinear shoaling model was very recently found valid for the shoaling of the primary and bound components in regular waves when the slope angle is positive and mild. In the present paper this shoaling model is utilized and assumed valid also for the de-shoaling of the reflected waves, ie on a negative mild slope angle. However, if the reflected waves are nonlinear the de-shoaling process is much more complicated and will for example cause the release of free waves. Interactions among those free reflected wave components may cause nonlinear interactions not included in the mathematical model. For that reason, the applicability range is limited to mildly nonlinear reflected waves. Using numerical model data with various foreshore slopes, wave nonlinearities and reflection coefficients the reliability of the developed model is examined in detail.