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Keyword: Wave Height

paper

Numerical Study on Regular Wave Shoaling, De-Shoaling and Decomposition of Free/Bound Waves on Gentle and Steep Foreshores

Mads Røge Eldrup & Thomas Lykke Andersen

Numerical tests are performed to investigate wave transformations of nonlinear nonbreaking regular waves with normal incidence to the shore in decreasing and increasing water depth. The wave height transformation (shoaling) of nonlinear waves can, just as for linear waves, be described by conservation of the mechanical energy flux. The numerical tests show that the mechanical energy flux for nonlinear waves on sloping foreshores is well described by stream function wave theory for horizontal foreshore. Thus, this theory can be used to estimate the shoaled wave height. Furthermore, the amplitude and the celerity of the wave components of nonlinear waves on mildly sloping foreshores can also be predicted with the stream function wave theory. The tests also show that waves propagating to deeper water (de-shoaling) on a very gentle foreshore with a slope of cot(β) = 1200 can be described in the same way as shoaling waves. For de-shoaling on steeper foreshores, free waves are released leading to waves that are not of constant form and thus cannot be modelled by the proposed approach.

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering / 2020
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paper

Average Overtopping Discharge Prediction for Berm Breakwaters

Thomas Lykke Andersen, Mads Røge Eldrup & Jentsje W. van der Meer

The present paper deals with overtopping prediction for berm breakwaters in line with the EurOtop methodology. The basis for the paper is the recent advances proposed for EurOtop for conventional breakwaters with respect to the influence of the wave steepness and the crest width. New model tests have been performed to investigate the applicability of these influence factors to berm breakwaters. To cover a white spot in existing data for berm breakwaters, the model tests included wave conditions with very low wave steepness. The results show that the recently developed influence factors for conventional breakwaters also improve predictions for berm breakwaters. Based on this, an additional influence factor for the dimensionless berm width is established. The berm width was in previous studies made dimensionless by the wave height, but the present study indicates that the wavelength is more appropriate.

Coastal Engineering Research Council / 2023
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