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Keyword: Water Depth

paper

Generation of Highly Nonlinear Waves in a Short Wave Flume

Mads Røge Eldrup & Thomas Lykke Andersen

The typical approach for generating nonlinear waves in physical models involves employing first- or second-order wave theory, requiring a large water depth at the wavemaker. When the prototype bathymetry shows a gentle slope, a large facility is required. However, practical constraints often make this unfeasible, leading to the use of steep transition slopes to obtain sufficient water depth at the generator. Incorporating a transition slope may generate unwanted free waves beyond the transition point, significantly impacting the wave parameters. The presence of these free waves causes the response of the tested structure to deviate from that found in the prototype. This paper offers guidelines for using transition slopes effectively while avoiding the generation of unwanted free waves after the transition point.

CoastLab 2024 : Physical Modeling in Coastal Engineering and Science / 2024
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paper

Numerical Study on Regular Wave Shoaling, De-Shoaling and Decomposition of Free/Bound Waves on Gentle and Steep Foreshores

Mads Røge Eldrup & Thomas Lykke Andersen

Numerical tests are performed to investigate wave transformations of nonlinear nonbreaking regular waves with normal incidence to the shore in decreasing and increasing water depth. The wave height transformation (shoaling) of nonlinear waves can, just as for linear waves, be described by conservation of the mechanical energy flux. The numerical tests show that the mechanical energy flux for nonlinear waves on sloping foreshores is well described by stream function wave theory for horizontal foreshore. Thus, this theory can be used to estimate the shoaled wave height. Furthermore, the amplitude and the celerity of the wave components of nonlinear waves on mildly sloping foreshores can also be predicted with the stream function wave theory. The tests also show that waves propagating to deeper water (de-shoaling) on a very gentle foreshore with a slope of cot(β) = 1200 can be described in the same way as shoaling waves. For de-shoaling on steeper foreshores, free waves are released leading to waves that are not of constant form and thus cannot be modelled by the proposed approach.

Journal of Marine Science and Engineering / 2020
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