Physical model tests are often conducted during the design process of coastal structures. The wave climate in such tests often includes short-crested nonlinear waves. The structural response is related to the incident waves measured in front of the structure. Existing methods for separation of incident and reflected short-crested waves are based on linear wave theory. For analysis of nonlinear waves, the existing methods are limited to separation of nonlinear long-crested waves. For short-crested waves, the only options so far have been to use estimates without the structure in place. The present paper thus presents a novel method for directional analysis of nonlinear short-crested waves: Non-Linear Single-summation Oblique Reflection Separation (NL-SORS). The method is validated on numerical model data, as for such data, the target is well defined as simulations may be performed with fully absorbing boundaries. Second- and third-order wave theory is used to demonstrate that small errors on the celerity of nonlinear components in the mathematical model of the surface elevation can be obtained if a double narrow-banded directional spectrum is assumed, ie the primary frequency and the directional spreading function must be narrow banded. As the increasing nonlinearity of the waves often arise from waves shoaling on a sloping foreshore, the directional spreading of the waves will decrease due to refraction, and a broad directional spreading function will thus not be experienced in highly nonlinear conditions. The new NL-SORS method is shown to successfully decompose nonlinear short-crested wave fields and estimate the directional spectrum thereof.
Physical model tests are often conducted during the design process of coastal structures. The wave climate in such tests often includes short-crested nonlinear waves. The structural response is related to the incident waves measured in front of the structure. Existing methods for separation of incident and reflected short-crested waves are based on linear wave theory. For analysis of nonlinear waves, the existing methods are limited to separation of nonlinear long-crested waves. For short-crested waves, the only options so far have been to use estimates without the structure in place. The present paper thus presents a novel method for directional analysis of nonlinear short-crested waves: Non-Linear Single-summation Oblique Reflection Separation (NL-SORS). The method is validated on numerical model data, as for such data, the target is well defined as simulations may be performed with fully absorbing boundaries. Second- and third-order wave theory is used to demonstrate that small errors on the celerity of nonlinear components in the mathematical model of the surface elevation can be obtained if a double narrow-banded directional spectrum is assumed, ie the primary frequency and the directional spreading function must be narrow banded. As the increasing nonlinearity of the waves often arise from waves shoaling on a sloping foreshore, the directional spreading of the waves will decrease due to refraction, and a broad directional spreading function will thus not be experienced in highly nonlinear conditions. The new NL-SORS method is shown to successfully decompose nonlinear short-crested wave fields and estimate the directional spectrum thereof.
The typical approach for generating nonlinear waves in physical models involves employing first- or second-order wave theory, requiring a large water depth at the wavemaker. When the prototype bathymetry shows a gentle slope, a large facility is required. However, practical constraints often make this unfeasible, leading to the use of steep transition slopes to obtain sufficient water depth at the generator. Incorporating a transition slope may generate unwanted free waves beyond the transition point, significantly impacting the wave parameters. The presence of these free waves causes the response of the tested structure to deviate from that found in the prototype. This paper offers guidelines for using transition slopes effectively while avoiding the generation of unwanted free waves after the transition point.
In hydraulic model tests, it is common practice to relate the response of the tested structure to the incident wave parameters at the toe. Estimation of the incident wave parameters at the toe is thus an essential part of the analysis of hydraulic model testing. In many cases, the design conditions at the toe are given by waves that are highly nonlinear or even depth limited. Modelling such conditions requires reproducing the prototype foreshore slope in the model. The present paper provide guidelines on the accuracy of a nonlinear reflection separation algorithm when applied to nonlinear waves over sloping foreshores. A simple methodology has been established to estimate the expected errors on the incident wave parameters.
Numerical tests are performed to investigate wave transformations of nonlinear nonbreaking regular waves with normal incidence to the shore in decreasing and increasing water depth. The wave height transformation (shoaling) of nonlinear waves can, just as for linear waves, be described by conservation of the mechanical energy flux. The numerical tests show that the mechanical energy flux for nonlinear waves on sloping foreshores is well described by stream function wave theory for horizontal foreshore. Thus, this theory can be used to estimate the shoaled wave height. Furthermore, the amplitude and the celerity of the wave components of nonlinear waves on mildly sloping foreshores can also be predicted with the stream function wave theory. The tests also show that waves propagating to deeper water (de-shoaling) on a very gentle foreshore with a slope of cot(β) = 1200 can be described in the same way as shoaling waves. For de-shoaling on steeper foreshores, free waves are released leading to waves that are not of constant form and thus cannot be modelled by the proposed approach.